Inner beauty: Tomato, low molecular collagen peptide and sea buckthorn shine amid acne supplement scrutiny

04 Jun 2024 --- With more consumers demanding beauty products, including supplements that also promote holistic health, Personal Care Insights speaks to Lycored about its tomato skin care innovations. We also look at three research studies targeting beauty-from-within using low-molecular-weight collagen peptides, sea buckthorn oil and popular acne supplements. 

Innova Market Insights data indicates a 21% average annual growth in the Hair, Skin & Nail supplement launches globally from Apr 2019 to Mar 2024. Vitamin D2, phytosterols and wheatgrass are examples of rising skin care ingredients.

Golden tomato glow
Caroline Schroeder, global head of marketing at Lycored, presents two innovations in the beauty-from-within category that she believes are game changers for skin health. Lycored’s products are used for overall health, skin structure and timeless aging.

“Lycomato, Lycored’s flagship, proprietary and most clinically studied formulation from our red tomatoes, exudes more than traditional beauty markers. Beyond skin health, this versatile powerhouse formulation has a wide range of benefits, including anti-inflammaging (reducing oxidation and inflammation), immunity support, men’s and women’s health, plus heart, eye and bone health,” she shares. 

Lumenato is edible and harvested from golden tomatoes.“Lycomato is also an inclusive product, working at a cellular level across ethnicities, ages and skin types. This formulation allows people to embrace self-care and beauty-from-within, showing that when you feel good on the inside, it reflects outward.”

Lycored’s second formulation, patent-pending Lumenato, is edible and harvested from golden tomatoes.

“It has been formulated to harness strong antioxidants that help protect skin tissues from damage and healthy fatty acids to nourish and balance cells’ microenvironment — characteristics that consumers can see and feel. Given the power of this formulation, Lycored recently added a new delivery format, Lumenato Emulsion, to the portfolio. This addition allows brands to incorporate Lumenato into additional end products consumers want, like ready-to-drink and shot-type beverages,” says Schroeder, adding they are learning more about both ingredients “as there’s still more to be discovered.”

Collagen peptides for skin health
A study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology shows that low-molecular-weight collagen peptide supplements can boost healthy skin. 

The peptides are composed of hydroxyproline, glycine and proline amino acids. According to the study, they are easily absorbed and stimulate fibroblasts to produce extracellular matrix molecules to strengthen skin tissue.

The South Korea-based study involved 100 participants in a randomized, double-blinded, placebo-controlled trial over 12 weeks, assessing the impact of collagen peptides on skin wrinkles, elasticity, hydration and whitening.

Participants were randomly assigned to receive either a test product containing the collagen peptides or a placebo. 

The supplement was formulated with GPVGPS Collagen from Daehan Chemtech, made from the fish scales of Nile tilapia, maltodextrin, silicon dioxide and sucralose. 

Collagen peptides can improve skin elasticity, hydration and whitening without adverse effects (Image credit: Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology).Significant improvement
According to the results, the test group showed “significant” improvements over the placebo group. There was a noticeable decrease in wrinkles, average skin roughness, and skin elasticity metrics, such as overall and biological elasticity.

Changes in the melanin and erythema indices significantly improved the test group’s skin hydration and whitening. Results indicate that low-molecular-weight collagen peptide supplements taken orally can improve skin characteristics without having a negative impact.

The study details: “This therapeutic approach reduces the expression and activation of [matrix metalloproteinases] MMPs (specifically MMP-1, MMP-2, MMP-3, MMP-9 and MMP-12) following UVB radiation exposure, which subsequently leads to increased synthesis of collagen and elastic fibers, as well as reduced collagen fragmentation.” 

“In addition, reduced MMP-1 expression and higher levels of the tissue inhibitor of MMP-1 are believed to be involved in the anti-aging effects of collagen peptides. Further, bioactive collagen peptides, mainly consisting of prolyl-hydroxyproline, stimulate chemotaxis and proliferation of dermal fibroblasts, thereby enabling the production of dermal components: Hyaluronic acids, elastic fibers and collagen.”

Skin, eye and vaginal health
A new study in the Journal of Functional Foods finds benefits of sea buckthorn oil in improving skin, ocular, blood markers and vaginal health over 12 weeks.

Results showed significant improvements in the group taking sea buckthorn oil. Skin parameters 

such as brightness, elasticity, texture and collagen showed notable enhancement. Participants also reported relief from dry eyes and vaginal issues.

Collagen peptides can improve skin elasticity, hydration and whitening without adverse effects (Image credit: Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology).Participants were randomly given either sea buckthorn oil capsules or a placebo, while researchers measured skin elasticity, color, collagen, pore size and redness. Blood samples were analyzed for antioxidant levels, and a questionnaire surveyed participants’ experiences with eye discomfort and vaginal dryness.

Sea buckthorn boost
According to researchers, sea buckthorn oil has a rich profile of essential and unsaturated fatty acids, including Omega 3, 6, 7 and 9. The fatty acids are important for maintaining skin health and protecting against transepidermal water loss, irritation and infection. 

Researchers note that sea buckthorn oil supplements improve skin hydration and elasticity while reducing wrinkles. They attribute the success to fatty acids, which promote collagen synthesis and suppress inflammation.

In particular, omega 7 inhibits melanin synthesis, lessens UV-induced hyperpigmentation and stimulates pathways that increase collagen synthesis and lower inflammation. As a result, sea buckthorn oil improves skin texture and reduces signs of aging.

Acne supplements spotlight
A recent review in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology evaluated 13 common ingredients used in dietary acne supplements, raising efficacy and safety concerns.

Probiotics are among the most common ingredients in acne supplements. The good bacteria, which include strains like Bifidobacterium and Lactobacillus, are thought to strengthen the skin’s protective layer, lessen inflammation and fight bacteria that cause acne.  

Probiotics in acne supplements may help reduce inflammation and combat acne-causing bacteria.Although few clinical trials have produced encouraging outcomes, a study using Lactobacillus strains showed that patients’ skin conditions were better and their acne was less severe.

However, the review highlighted a gap in large-scale, well-controlled human studies. Most findings are based on in vitro studies or small clinical trials. They suggest further research is required to confirm the effectiveness and safety of acne treatments.

Furthermore, diindolylmethane (DIM), a compound derived from cruciferous vegetables, is another popular ingredient in acne supplements. Researchers believe it regulates estrogen metabolism and has shown anti-inflammatory properties in lab studies.

However, no strong clinical trials have confirmed DIM’s effectiveness in treating acne despite its growing popularity. Serious safety issues, such as thrombotic events and severe drug reactions, have also been reported.

Furthermore, zinc is another popular anti-inflammatory and immune-boosting supplement. According to the review, studies on zinc supplementation have mixed results. Certain trials indicate a significant reduction in the severity of acne, while other trials do not differ from placebo in any way. Moreover, zinc may have gastrointestinal adverse effects, the most frequent being nausea.

Reviewing vitamins
Vitamin A is included in some acne supplements and benefits skin health. However, the review finds that some supplements have doses higher than the daily recommended intake, which can disturb fetus growth when pregnant. Misleading labels and inconsistent dosage information also complicate the safe administration of vitamin A supplements.

The review also examined B vitamins, such as B3 (niacinamide) and B7 (biotin). Although niacinamide is applied topically to treat acne and has anti-inflammatory qualities, little evidence supports its oral use. Despite being crucial for metabolism, biotin has not been thoroughly researched as a treatment for acne, says the paper. The authors say it is debatable whether B12 should be present in acne treatments because it has been connected to breakouts that resemble acne when taken in excess.

Lastly, the review authors flag the lack of US FDA regulation for dietary supplements compared to medications, which can lead to risks of incorrect labeling, undisclosed interactions with other drugs and unsafe dosages. Consumers can assume over-the-counter supplements are safe, but evidence suggests otherwise.

By Venya Patel