In-cosmetics Global 2025 live: BASF debuts three biodegradable hair care agents

BASF introduces a natural styling polymer, a wax-based opacifier, and a sustainably sourced betaine for hair care at In-cosmetics Global 2025 in Amsterdam, the Netherlands. The natural-based ingredients aim to address the growing consumer demand for biodegradable, ethically sourced, high-performing beauty products.

The three ingredients include Verdessence Maize, a natural styling polymer; Lamesoft OP Plus, a wax-based opacifier dispersion; and Dehyton PK45 GA/RA, a betaine surfactant derived from Rainforest Alliance Certified coconut oil.

Personal Care Insights speaks to BASF’s Dr. Natalia Chudinova, market development manager of Polymers, EMEA, live on the show floor about how the ingredients perform in formulations.

She spotlights the polymer, stating: “Verdessence Maize is a sustainable alternative to (polyvinylpyrrolidone) and VP/VA copolymers, and it’s especially perfect for formulations like pump sprays, pump mousses, aerosol mousses, and other styling applications.”

The three ingredients are designed to replace traditional, often synthetic materials commonly used in hair styling, cleansing, and visual enhancement of formulations.

BASF says the new ingredients allow manufacturers to reduce their environmental impact without compromising product performance or sensory quality.

All three ingredients are either biodegradable or derived from renewable resources or certified sustainable sources. The launch also aims to address formulation challenges, such as the need for cold processing and compatibility with sulfate-alternative surfactant systems.

Plant-based polymer

Verdessence Maize is a plant-derived polymer designed for natural hair styling products. It is positioned as a biodegradable alternative to synthetic styling agents such as PVP and VP/VA polymers, which are commonly used in hair sprays, mousses, and gels but are not readily biodegradable.

The polymer is 100% sourced from renewable feedstocks and made from hydrolyzed corn starch, details Dr. Chudinova.

“The key here is that it creates crystal-clear formulations. It’s a biopolymer that doesn’t add viscosity, which is new in our portfolio. With this product, you can design formulations that perform very well. This product was also tested and approved by different hairdressers in different application fields.”

Verdessence Maize is a plant-derived polymer designed for natural hair styling products.Dr. Chudinova recommends the product be used in cloud mousse formulations, for example, in aerosol mousses. She emphasizes that it is specifically suitable for curly hair but can be used on all hair types, “from short to long, and as well across different hair conditions — whether it’s colored, bleached, or natural.”

“It doesn’t create a crunchy feel. It leaves a natural feel. After application, it doesn’t leave a sticky feeling on the hands, which makes it pleasant for both the user and the professional applying it.”

BASF’s internal testing suggests Verdessence Maize can match or exceed the performance of synthetic polymers in holding power and curl retention when used at specific concentrations: a 7% concentration in mousse showed equal stiffness and better curl retention than formulations containing 2% of conventional polymers.

Opacifier without acrylates and pearlizers

BASF’s Lamesoft OP Plus is a wax-based opacifier that provides a creamy white appearance in rinse-off products like shampoos and body washes. Opacifiers are commonly used to give an opaque look to clear liquid products, which is often achieved by using acrylate-based or synthetic materials.

“It’s a sustainable alternative to conventional acrylate-based opacifiers. What we’re talking about here is a wax-based opacifying dispersion that’s easy to incorporate into formulations,” Dr. Chudinova tells us.

“It provides a strong opacifying effect and brings additional benefits for rinse-off formulations.”

The ingredient is cold-processable, meaning formulators can add it without needing to heat the formulation — making it more energy efficient and “simpler” to work with. The opacifier offers a biodegradable alternative with 98.5% natural origin content.

The formulation is based on ingredients like coco-glucoside and glycol distearate and is suitable for cold processing, which helps reduce energy use during manufacturing.

It is also compatible with sulfate-free surfactant systems, which have become popular due to consumer concerns over skin irritation and environmental impact. Lamesoft OP Plus helps formulators avoid using pearlizing agents, as they can crystallize during storage and cause inconsistent visual quality.

According to the company’s performance testing, the opacifier acts beyond appearance, also contributing care benefits, such as easier wet and dry combing and reduced hair breakage in rinse-off formulations. These features align with the ongoing consumer preference for multifunctional products that support both aesthetics and overall health.

Betaine surfactantBASF displays three natural-based ingredients at In-cosmetics Global 2025, in Amterdam, the Netherlands.

Dehyton PK45 GA/RA is a betaine surfactant that improves foam and cleansing properties in shampoos, face washes, and bath gels.

Unlike conventional surfactants, this ingredient is derived from Rainforest Alliance Certified coconut oil. BASF says certification through the Rainforest Alliance helps ensure better farming conditions, forest preservation, and climate consciousness.

Betaine surfactants are amphoteric, meaning they carry both positive and negative charges, making them “gentle and versatile” in many pH environments.

This ingredient is an answer to the industry’s increasing emphasis on supply chain transparency and responsible sourcing, according to BASF. Coconut oil is widely used in personal care, but its production can raise concerns about labor practices and deforestation.

Dehyton PK45 GA/RA is also readily biodegradable and compatible with sulfate-free systems. 

With live reporting from Sabine Waldeck at In-cosmetics Global 2025, in Amsterdam, the Netherlands.