Mad about mercury: Toxic cosmetics remain on global market amid regulatory failings

Mercury remains a common ingredient in cosmetics despite being banned in dozens of countries and classified by the WHO as one of the 10 most dangerous chemicals to public health. Watchdog groups reveal that major regulatory loopholes, gaps in enforcement, the rise of informal supply chains and social media-driven beauty trends fuel the continued sale of toxic cosmetics, especially in regions with higher poverty rates.

In the Philippines, the EcoWaste Coalition found budget retailers openly selling and promoting banned skin-lightening creams, despite repeated FDA warnings since 2017.

In India, “Operation Saundarya” uncovered illegal cosmetics with mercury levels 12,000 times the legal limit, citing weak enforcement and persistent consumer demand as main drivers.

Meanwhile, BAN Toxics and ZMWG investigations have revealed that social media platforms and online marketplaces continue to show ads for mercury-containing products, exposing a lack of accountability from “some of the world’s largest online retailers.”

Mercury is an appealing ingredient to add to skin-lightening, brightening, and bleaching cosmetics due to its fast-acting efficacy. The toxin inhibits melanin production, making the skin appear fairer within days.

According to the WHO, the neurotoxin causes kidney damage, nervous system disorders, psychosis, neurological damage, and severe skin reactions. Mercury vapor from these products can also linger in the air, allowing for potent second-hand exposure.

BAN Toxics argues that while social media platforms are permitted to find the balance between free expression and consumer safety independently, a key question remains unanswered: Is enough being done to stop the sale of these cosmetics?

Social media’s toxic trends

In an era where social media dictates beauty trends, the internet has become both a marketplace and an echo chamber for misinformation. While influential platforms claim to enforce bans on toxic products, watchdog groups say enforcement is inconsistent at best.

With regulators struggling to enforce bans, social media algorithms play an unintended role in fueling the demand for toxic products. Viral beauty trends and influencers often promote these, perhaps unaware of the health risks.

Skin-bleaching products remain widely available in regions where the demand for lighter skin remains high.The Bantay Toxics Patrollers is a volunteer branch of BAN Toxics. The group recently monitored social media platforms like TikTok, Facebook Marketplace, Facebook Reels, and online retailers like Lazada and Shopee, and found the persistent advertisement and sale of mercury-laced products.

The group collaborated with the Zero Mercury Working Group (ZMWG) on the availability of these products, prompting the group to purchase and screen the skin-lightening products. All samples tested positive for mercury, with “alarmingly high” levels ranging from 5,700 ppm to 24,900 ppm. The safety limit is 1 ppm, set by the ASEAN Cosmetics Directive.

“Social media platforms and online shopping sites must safeguard the public from prohibited beauty products that pose health risks. They should proactively take down these listings and take responsibility once and for all,” says Thony Dizon, advocacy and campaign officer at BAN Toxics.

Health risks of mercury exposure

The US FDA and the WHO have both classified mercury in cosmetics as a significant public health concern, additionally due to how potent secondary exposure is: mercury vapors can linger in the air and transfer onto household items like towels and clothing, putting family members at risk.

Short-term exposure can cause rashes, skin discoloration, and allergic reactions. Direct or prolonged exposure can lead to kidney damage, nervous system disorders, neurological damage, and severe skin reactions. Symptoms of mercury poisoning include tremors, memory loss, irritability, and depression.

Children and unborn babies are at increased risk. According to the US FDA: “Some people — including pregnant women, nursing babies, and young children — are especially vulnerable to mercury toxicity. Babies may be particularly sensitive to the harm mercury can cause to their developing brains and nervous systems. Newborns who nurse are vulnerable because mercury is passed into breast milk.”

A tale of two markets

While some countries have moved toward cleaner, safer beauty standards, others remain caught in a cycle where economic hardship and beauty pressures keep dangerous products in circulation. These products remain widely available in regions where the demand for lighter skin remains high, driven by deep-rooted cultural beauty standards.

Research shows that South Asian and West African countries have the highest demand for skin-whitening, lightening, or bleaching products, with Pakistan, Nigeria, Ghana, Sri Lanka, and India among the top drivers.Mercury is passed into breast milk, putting newborns and nursing babies at an increased risk.

The EcoWaste Coalition’s findings reveal that, beyond cultural beauty standards, economic factors are also significant. In regions with higher poverty rates, consumers are more likely to purchase cheaper, unregulated products from informal sellers.

The FDA’s detection of high mercury levels in multiple Pakistani-made creams, including Aneeza Gold (12,400 ppm), Sandal Whitening (13,100 ppm), and Chandni Whitening (8,790 ppm), suggests that Pakistan plays a key role in manufacturing these products.

The EcoWaste Coalition’s investigation discovered that budget retailers in the Philippines openly sell skin-lightening products, including multiple variants of Pakistan-made Goree Beauty Cream, which the FDA has repeatedly flagged with public health warnings from 2017 to 2023.

“These mercury cosmetics are openly displayed and sold in full view of everyone,” Aileen Lucero, national coordinator at EcoWaste Coalition, observes.

In India, a recent government enforcement effort, “Operation Saundarya,” revealed mercury levels 12,000 times the legal limit in some cosmetics. Inspected items included lipsticks, face cream, baby powder, baby soap, and baby oil.

Despite bans under the Cosmetics Rules 2020, the operation cites gaps in enforcement and consumer demand for fairness products as drivers of the illegal sale. Experts explicitly warn against the use of cheap products.

Similarly, local case studies in China highlight that weak enforcement allows banned products to re-enter unofficial supply chains, and the black market thrives.

Last month, African leaders and experts met in Gabon and signed the Libreville Commitment, a plan to strengthen laws, improve enforcement, and raise public awareness about mercury’s dangers. African ministers will present the Libreville Commitment at COP-6 in Geneva to push for more decisive global action.

As long as unregulated e-commerce fueled by social media, economic pressures, and regulatory loopholes allow the sale of mercury-laden cosmetics, consumers will keep flirting with calamity. The WHO recommends establishing or improving legislation, implementing compliance and enforcement strategies, conducting advocacy campaigns, and increasing awareness of the health risks of mercury-containing cosmetics to address the global problem.